Though I come from a coastal village of Andhra Pradesh, I cannot but help naming Hyderabad my home. Ofcourse my village has several things that I miss being anywhere else. Owing to the 8 years of my life's crucial time spent in Hyderabad, everything about me is now deeply rooted in that city. Ask something about me, and I hardly see myself answer without 'Hyderabad' in reply to it. The city has been successful in absorbing me, or rather I have been able to dissolve myself in it. But I clearly see that is not the case with Barcelona. As with anything that is linked to people's behavior, I cannot identify bullet points as to what makes a person feel at home, but what I can do is talk about how it affected me.
Europe is like a developed India. No less, no more. It might be politically wrong to say so, but culturally and geographically is appropriate. The similarity ends at naming the descriptors (language, music, habits etc), both of them have very less in common in terms of each of their descriptions. India is a (supposedly organized) chaos where everything appears fuzzy, whereas European countries seem to have clear boundaries on what each of them term as their own, and what is foreign. I favor none.
Edit: A friend notes that the the statement "Europe is like a developed India" might not be appropriate. Please note that it is just my observation owing to the organizations in place in both regions to help different cultures/languages have their own space, besides co-existing. As I said, I do not prefer one to another. Both have their drawbacks.
1. Language: This is one thing which greatly puzzled me the first time I was in Europe (France). I thought English, steadily establishing itself to be a defacto communication medium across the globe, would be spoken widely here. I cannot be more wrong. An Indian auto-rickshaw driver speaks better English than an airport authority in Europe (not at all an exaggeration). I had mixed feelings about this: On one hand, I really appreciated the people for not depending on something foreign. They have everything available to be consumed in their language, in every European country: education, government services etc. On the other hand, I'm amazed at the apparent stupidity (can be indifference/ignorance) in not having an English speaker at the places most necessary like airports, immigrant services etc. In India, we do the opposite. If it's hard to believe, I'll take you to a nationalized bank in a village of the state of Andhra Pradesh where they do not serve with Telugu documents. All the document requests are in English/Hindi which none of them speak. 'Organized' chaos? A chaos which cannot be better organized I say. My mixed feelings towards Europeans in this regard are quite justified.
2. Socializing: Drinking (tea, coffee and beer alike) and smoking can easily be seen as the fastest and most natural activities over which socialization happens (general rule of exceptions apply). It cannot get any worse for someone like me who takes none of those. This is more a psychological thing as you feel estranged amongst all those holding glasses and cigars. But once you start realizing it is only in your head, you will stop noticing the problem altogether. Still there are way too many beer meetups, or tea breaks, or cigar chats that you will have to miss. This is very unlike India, where we can gather and talk just for talking sake and choose to do nothing else. And of course, restaurant dinners (as is the travel) in India are much cheaper and facilitate great spots for friends to meet, again unlike here where private drink parties substitute them. As I said, these are no bullet points, only my personal experiences.
3. Formalities: In general, we Indians are more intrusive and less apologetic which is the way we are used to. But people in Europe are just too formal in everything. They apologize too much and they seem detached with their neighbours. This treatment is not limited to foreigners like me, they do it between themselves too.
This, and many other sublime experiences, put you out of your comfort zone. When I moved from my village to Hyderabad, I can accommodate the change as an extension to my way of life. Here in Barcelona, it's rather different. I do not say I don't like it, I like it and enjoy as much as the Europeans do. But it does not feel to be an extension anymore, I'm on a different island of culture as a visitor.
Nevertheless, there seem to be some benefits to be reaped out of this situation. The most important of them is boredom. I'm not kidding, it's the best thing that can ever happen to us. When it reaches its zenith, you will end up being creative. You just can't help it. There is no other way out. As for me, I started (or resumed) reading a lot. And, writing (my first not-so-short story, written in Telugu, is to be published in http://koumudi.net, probably in three months from now). I have only dreamt of reading a good deal about the person who had a great influence on me: Sri Krishna Devaraya, but never got time for it. Well, now I have it in abundance, and did it. I love him even more now (a full post about his reign has been deferred). The next best thing is that you have time. Well, it might sound the same as the boredom, but not quite so. I want to jog, swim and learn an instrument. While in India, I barely get enough time (don't ask me why, I have no clue) to do any of those. Here, I'm already at two of them, waiting to bring my violin in my next trip to India. The other good things are: your phone does not ring much, your mother can not overfeed you, friends don't hit you on birthday etc.!
All that is my own experience, nothing imaginary. But from here on, I also include some opinions which may not be from a direct experience (but ofcourse are based on some discussions with knowledgeable people).
A question which I was asked quite often is: Will you return to India? I remember at least four people asking me this in our first meeting. My answer from day one (as would be obvious from what I said till now), is Yes. Only now, it is stronger than ever. This post is no place to discuss my reasons (but just to be clear, I'm no patriot). I always wondered why some people stayed back? Especially those who go to United States and United Kingdom. Ofcourse, I'm not wondering about the big firms and establishments in silicon valley, it's an altogether different story which has its own course that I believe would ultimately lead to a symbiotic setup across the globe. Whom I wonder about is those day-to-day employees. What motivates them to hang-on there away from home? It cannot be just money (Or can it be, after all?). I tried to convey my thoughts whenever I get an opportunity. Some agree with me when I say that there are already huge communities of people from India in those countries and people who go there are no more faced with social challenges like the ones I mentioned in the case of Europe. Some say it is to give their children a better life and opportunities. I remember reading two articles (long back, and have no track of URLs) which shed more light on mundane reasons. But at the moment as the job space in India is expanding, such reasons seem to be loosing context, and my wonder still remains a wonder. Anyway, my opinions in this regard are prone to change as I learn more things. An Indian in Europe and an Indian in US will certainly have contrasting experiences, and I'm very interested in learning the latter's perspective.
Very interesting post.
Very interesting post. Perhaps I can add my two cents :)
I'm also an immigrant in Barcelona. Coming from Israel, I first moved to the UK and then to Spain. And of course, I also found things that were similar to my culture back home and things that were different (personally I find Spain a lot more similar to Israel than the UK, perhaps it's a Mediterranean thing). Anyway, to keep my thoughts structured (I fear I don't have the synthesis capabilities you do), I'll use the same topics you used for this post, perhaps in just a slightly different order.
Socializing - I don't drink coffee either nor do I smoke. I do drink tea and beer however. Nonetheless, personally I feel that, in Spain, on most occasions these activities are just an excuse to get together and chat. Yes, sometimes everyone goes out for a smoke and if you don't smoke then it can be a bit awkward, but with time I just ended up thinking of alternatives I can do to be part of it - they drink coffee? I drink a hot chocolate. They have a smoke? I have a snack or just grab a breath of "fresh" air. Beer drinking is a tougher context perhaps, but I have a good friend that for years went out with us and always ordered a coke :) I think you'd find things are a lot worse in the UK... there I felt that sometimes (definitely not always) drinking was not even an excuse for socializing, it was the whole point of the evening. That can be quite frustrating indeed. But all in all, I think even though a night out might start as "hey lets go out for a drink", once you're actually there no one cares if you have beer or coke or just a glass of water.
Formalities - I guess it's all relative. I recommend going to the UK, Spain will suddenly feel a lot less formal! But then again, perhaps coming from India Spain does look too formal. In that sense, I have no excuse or counter argument - we're each used to what we're used to, and I think it's always harder coming from a more open place to a less open place. However, I also think it's a matter of time - with my personal group of friends, these formalities are long gone. It's more of a means of keeping some sort of order between citizens in general (ok, maybe we don't need this order? i can't tell), but such formalities are dropped quite quickly once you get to know someone. It also depends on *where* you are in Spain - you can't really compare Barcelona to, for example, the villages around it, or some cities in the south of Spain (e.g. Sevilla). The drummer in my band comes from a village in tarragona where everyone knows everyone, literally. I somehow think that in Europe, the bigger a city is the less personal the relationships are between its inhabitants. To me this seems normal (you can't be friends with EVERYONE), but perhaps in India things are different. It also requires some personal initiative - many people can be very friendly once you get to know them, they just don't have that initial courage to start a conversation. Coming from abroad, one usually feels at a disadvantage and hopes to be approached rather than approach others. When I started my masters at the UPF I actually did feel very welcomed - other students made an effort to speak in English because they knew I wouldn't understand them otherwise (this was almost 5 years ago...). But well, sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and be the one the initiate a conversation, or invite someone over, etc.
In any case, I think both of these previous aspects are strongly affected by what I've been saving for last... language.
Personally, I found language to be a massive massive factor here in Spain, and Barcelona being the capitol of Catalunya only adds flames to the fire. Like you said, it's amazing how little English is spoken in Spain. Obviously there's no reason for it to be an official language, but some basic English for general communication, and especially in places such as airports would be expected. In the Spaniard's defense though, up until the late 70's they were are a totalitarian regime where everything that wasn't Spanish was forbidden, and that really screwed them over. After 30 years, Spain is still in the process of recovering from the damage caused by the "Franquismo" (well, if you're into Spanish politics, the franquismo is still very much alive unfortunately). This is very different from Israel and India, who were both under British regime for many years before becoming independent.
But even the younger generation, who generally does speak some English - is very shy about it and doesn't feel at all comfortable. This means that often, locals don't socialize with foreigners simply because of the language barrier, and in Spain, it's one hell of a barrier. I think my personal experience is quite relevant in this case - I arrived in Spain about 5 years ago not knowing a single word in Spanish. Over the time I learned more and more, and know I can pretty much say I'm fluent (my Catalan is another issue...). My point is - throughout my time in Spain, I found that the more Spanish I could speak, the more doors were opened for me. I started speaking to people I wouldn't have spoken to otherwise, being invited to events I might have not been invited to otherwise, understanding jokes I wouldn't have otherwise (I always say a good measure of your control of a language is how well you can flirt in that language :). Anyway, at first read this might seem quite closed and unfriendly - why be so open to spanish speakers and so closed to non-spanish speakers. But in my experience, it's genuinely a language barrier - people just can't express themselves well in English, they feel embarrassed and can't be themselves. In an ideal world it wouldn't be like this... but at least for now, that's the situation. That's why whenever I talk to newcomers who've arrived in Spain recently, I always ask - "how's your spanish". Over here, it's more than a means for getting your paperwork done, and getting the right cheese at the supermarket. It's your gateway to society.
Then there's Catalan. But that's a whole different story, so we'll save it for another time.
I guess we each have our own personal story, our own trajectory. I arrived not knowing a word of spanish, and not knowing anyone in the city. Over the course of the years I learned the language, got to make some very good friends and well, my girlfriend is spanish and my day-to-day is practically all in Spanish. Then again, coming from Israel (which sometimes tries to think of itself as an extension of europe in the middle east even though it's not really), I've probably had better starting conditions.
Whatever your decision is in a few years, leave or stay, I hope it won't be due to lack of "absorption". Perhaps we can continue this conversation sometime over a cup of hot chocolate :)
Your perspective is a welcome
Your perspective is a welcome one, Justin! It perfectly supplements everything.
In fact, this post just serves as notes of experiences and definitely not a template to live on. The points which you mentioned (cokes/juices instead of beers, learning Spanish, befriending more and more people) are happening faster, the longer I stay here. The thing you mentioned about formalities being different in different places in Spain, is very true about India too, but on a lesser scale.
Indeed, it will not certainly be the inability to get absorbed that I will leave Barcelona :-) There are many things that I love about Barcelona which I did not write about. I was quite determined to return even before packing for PhD. Apart from my family and friends, there are certain things to be done which demand that I stay in India. I might discuss them in another post when my thoughts are mature enough.
Hey Gopal, Well written but
Hey Gopal,
Well written but there are somethings I want to point out based on my experience.
Language plays an important role to communicate. I know how frustrating it is when there is no one there to communicate in a common language. As of now European people are learning the importance of breaking the language barrier to capture the global market, but I somehow appreciate their love towards their language. I think that is the one reason why their language will never die out. In a country like India where English and Hindi are most prevalent languages there is a possibility that one day (may be 5000 years from now) the local languages will get extinct if it is not preserved in the written form.
In fact at first I was surprised too, but now I am forced to learn their language to read whats written on the grocery items. In a way its good and in a long run it is definitely useful.
For example lets see how many people actually type emails in Telugu or Hindi?? may be 2%. If you see that in Czech or French its more than 30 times higher. How many people search the web in Indian languages?? far too less.
I am not sure what was the origin, but I think the Britishers are to blame :D. They should have either conquered the whole world or should have left our country alone :D
Regarding socializing and culture a great philosopher once said "Be a Roman in Rome".
Avinesh
Very true Avinesh. As I said,
Very true Avinesh. As I said, I like that everyone here can consume everything in their own language. I wish it is the case with India too. But the idea of enforcing it on immigrants from day one does not seem to be good idea. A proper reception only encourages people to mingle well and learn their language soon. I confess that I'm too bad at learning a new language, so I'm to blame myself too :-)
Regarding the situation in India, from several books I have read and been reading (Imaging India by Nilekani, India after Gandhi by Guha and Gandhi's autobiography), British are only an excuse for the situation today. Hindi chauvinism has resulted in a bipolar nation with north (not all though) demanding Hindi be the national language, and south demanding it to be English since it is the only common language at that moment (and even today). This topic has wasted the time of several parlamentary sessions that Nehru has to find a way out to defer it to much later expecting the situation to improve over time. The temporary solution which he proposed is a tri-lingual formula for south (mother tongue, English AND Hindi) which still is in play. The day when all southeners speak Hindi will be the day when he said it will chosen as the national language. But everyone knew what happened to Hindi in south, and how English took its roots pan India. Instead, if they had formulated an education system in which all people have a choice, the situation could have been much better. I'm aware that I summed it up too short, but this is the essence.
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